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We recently undertook a make-over for a client and recorded it step by step - I hope this is of interest?Skin Preperation
Without stating the obvious, a good shave and smooth skin is an essential starting point to achieve the best look possible. For those that use a wet shave, we recommend you start with applying hot water to the face to open up the pours of the skin as much as possible. Once you have completed your initial shave, apply a lotion such as “Johnson baby lotion” and leave it to soak into the skin for a couple of minutes.Shave off the excess lotion and apply cold water to the face (as cold as you can stand it). This will help retract the hair follicles. Ideally apply an exfoliate to remove any dead skin around the face, don’t worry if your face appears a little red at this point. The action of applying the exfoliate helps to stimulate the blood cells and hence at times a temporary reddish face, a little like a “hot flush”.We can help mother nature along a little at this stage. To fill those fine lines we use M.A.C prep+prime line filler base (Figure 1) and under the eyes M.A.C fast response eye cream (Figure 2). The skin under the eye is very delicate so be kind to it and you will reap the benefits as you age.Applying the correct colour correction shade will help dramatically to even out the skin and if applied sparingly / correctly will assist greatly in beard cover. Our model Sue had “red” patches around the chin and upper lip area and even after a very close shave a slight dark beard shadow. The look we were aiming for was a day look, therefore the foundation selected was a liquid based product rather than a “Pan Stick” oil based product. For colour correction we used:
Applying Foundation
Once the colour correction liquid has fully dried you can apply your foundation over the top. Selecting the correct colour foundation can be a challenge as there are so many on the market all with their own descriptions pertaining to the colour. Sue has a warm tone skin, therefore we selected Shade N5 M.A.C body and face foundation (Figure 4) which is a liquid based foundation. The principal reason for using a liquid based foundation was that we wished to build up the depth of the foundation in layers. Make sure you take the foundation down the neckline and blend it in as you go.Having applied the correct coverage (layers) allow the foundation time to fully absorb into the skin. The choice at this stage is to apply a sealer in the form of a translucent powder or not, on this occasion we decided to use a sealer. Translucent powders also come in an array of shades, we selected a mid tone shade from the Kryolan Professional range TL3 (Figure 5) for this look. The powder was applied using a large powder puff and a rolling motion to press the powder into the skin. The translucent powder was applied all over the face and neck area, any excess was removed using a large powder brush.A Minor Adjustment
To help to achieve the higher appearance of the eyebrow and gain more space in the eye socket area, you can apply a “lift” (Figure 6) which in this case was achieved using 3M surgical tape attached to the wig cap (don’t worry it does not hurt).This technique takes a little practice and is best used in conjunction with a wig with a fringe to help conceal the tape on close inspection. There are specialist plastic lifts on the market but this method is effective and cheap.The Eyebrows
The eyebrows help to frame the face, not everyone has the luxury of having thin lady like eyebrows and Sue is no exception. There are two practical solutions when you have quite wide or dense eyebrows. The first option is to cover them completely and create new eyebrows in the desired position, or with the aid of shading give the illusion of thinner eyebrows. For a more dramatic evening look I would favor the covering option using a plastic and sealer approach but for a day time look as demonstrated here, we chose the shading technique.It is worth noting at this point, eyebrows are sisters and not identical twins. I often go back several times touching up the eyebrows before I’m totally happy. We used M.A.C “Spike” to achieve the outline of the brows. The final filling in was done using a dark(ish) brown eyeshadow which was inline with the colour of the wigs we were to use. After outlining the desired shape of the eyebrows we applied M.A.C Nylon eyeshadow as a base right under the brow bone area. The eyeshadow was pushed into the visible hairs that did not form part of the desired eyebrow shape thus washing them out.Take a little care when applying eye shadowsWhen working with various eye makeup colours there is always the possibility of “fall out” which is when specks of the makeup fall down onto the face. This can leave a mess even if wiped away gently especially if you use any form of black powder around the eyes. Prior to using makeup on the eyes apply a “pool” of translucent powder under the eye areas (Figure 9). This will capture any “fall out” and can be swept away at the end ensuring your foundation is untarnished.To add a little colour and depth to the eye we applied M.A.C Kitschmas (Figure 8)on the outer eye area and down to the socket line and blended it in with the M.A.C Nylon colour previously applied to the brow bone area, to give a soft look.To add depth to the eye M.A.C Knight Divine (Figure 9)was swept into the eye socket. M.A.C Cranberry (Figure 10) was applied to the eyelid right up to the socket line. To blend in the false eyelashes black M.A.C Liquid eyeliner (Figure 11) was applied to the very edge of the eyelid. M.A.C black khol pencil was then applied to the lower waterline and to the upper inside eye. The lower line was taken three quarters of the way into the eye and tapered off so not as to appear to narrow the eye too much. If your eyes are quite narrow you can apply a white khol pencil to the inner eye, this will help to open up the eye. A top set of medium false eyelashes were applied and blended into the natural eyelashes using M.A.C zoom black mascara, two coats were applied. A light coat was also applied to the lower lashes.The all important lipsTo make shaping the lips easier and to moisturize them, we applied a coat of M.A.C Lip Prep+Prime (Figure 12), this helps the lip lining pencil glide. For this look we used M.A.C Vino pencil to line the lips. Sue’s lips are quite full so we followed the natural lines. To give the impression of deep full bodied lips we applied and blended two different colour lipsticks.Starting with M.A.C Diva (Figure 13) and using a lip brush, apply a thin line over or as near as you can to the vino lip liner colour blending as you go. You should have a section of natural colour on both the top and bottom lip once finished. Fill in the natural lip portion with M.A.C “up the amp” which is a lighter shade (pinkish) and blend it in, this gives a lighter centre to your lips. For the finished look we added some M.A.C Dazzle Lip Gloss for that extra pout!ContouringThe male skull and the general facial features vary from those of a genetic female. To soften the male jaw line and highlight the cheek bones, some form of contouring should be applied. The exact position and amount depends on your overall face shape. Sue has a relatively “Oval” face so the contouring required was minimal around the jaw line. To soften the jawline a little we applied M.A.C Plum Foolery along the lower jawline and at the temples to narrow the forehead very slightly.To achieve the “English Rose” look we swept the M.A.C Plum Shimmer Blush cover (Figure 17) over the cheeks, remember to apply lightly and build it up little by little. If you draw an imaginary line from the corner of your mouth to the top of your ear that’s the line you should sweep the blusher along applying slightly heavier pressure of the cheek bone. If you have a slightly broad nose you can use the same colour on the inside of the nose but be sure not to use too much and blend it in with your foundation.In order to bring forward or highlight the critical areas of the face (the triangle area between the nose and eyes, top lip, bridge of the nose and the chin), we used M.A.C Silver dusk (Figure 16). This product has a wonderful shimmer effect but should be used with caution, as too much can make your face look over made-up especially for a day look. To ensure everything was blended well and looked as natural as possible some M.A.C blot powder was applied to the bridge of the nose (Figure 18).A reddish / auburn range of wigs were used to finish the look as they matched the final completion.
May 25, 2012- -
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June 23, 2012- -
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June 23, 2012- -
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